Dollmaker

I can’t hold my tongue any more. It’s abuse of position. Jeremy Scott is using the glittering Moschino name to peddle his own nasty wares. Can we call security? Get this guy outta here! This is one Scot(t) that should have been granted independence this week!

Okay, so he has a sense of humor and thinks fashion should be fun. He doesn’t know the code and is trespassing on our property

Franco Moschino had a clever, questioning, political point of view, using his fashion as a platform to tackle issues of consumerism, drugs, AIDS….and then, as well as all that, he knew how to have a laugh, yes.

Through fashion Franco bantered with women; he engaged in witty repartee. Even when he embroidered For Fashion Victims Only on our back, or Waist of Money around our middle, it was clear he loved women. There was respect behind what he did. Jeremy Scott is laughing at us, pointing his finger and sneering, calling us dumb.

If Scott responds to the inevitable criticism of his Spring 2015 Barbie-inspired collection with some drivel about how it is a commentary on today’s portrayal of women, if I read that, if those words come out of his obnoxious face, I will throw my computer out the far window right into the koi pond. I will. Poor fish.

For there is no commentary here:

Moschino Milan Fashion Week Spring Summer 2015 September 2014Please fashion editors, bloggers, and postmodern provocateurs, don’t project an intellectualism on this that isn’t there. Scott is incapable of profound thought. The LA smog has more depth than him. This is not Legally Blonde. There was some grey matter worn with that pink. No, women, he wants you to look like a Paris Hilton ditsy tits.

Worse still, droves of you will lap this up (you’re not friends of mine though, thankfully). Where I will be confronted with it, up stickily close and personal, I’m already prepared, is in the classroom. The less reflective students entering the fashion design program will think this is cool. Them, their 13 year old sisters, all Katy Perry fans, rap video vixens, and ladies of a certain age who used to be described as mutton dressed as lamb. There you have it: his core customer base. It’s no laughing matter. That’s quite a demographic.

Good grief

Good grief

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Luckily for the 13 year olds, it is so easy to knock off it will be in high street stores in about, oh, 17 minutes. Gather your pocket money and prepare for joy.

Forewarned is forearmed. This was not shown with irony and will not be worn with irony. Spring will be bleak for the post-13-year-old set.

images-3MTI0NjU3NjQyMTY4NzA4NjUw

 

It will sell like hot…er, cupcakes. His contract will be renewed. I’m in a bad way about the whole thing.

 

His work is so conspicuously commercial it’s the antithesis of Moschino.

Franco, the perennial outsider figure with a love of art and surrealism, who stumbled unintentionally into the shoes of Elsa Schiaparelli before him, and loved biting the hand that fed him, once said, “My way of being funny in fashion became a business.”

This LA club kid, besties with Miley (I wonder if he isn’t in fact Miley but with more clothes on…no, can’t be, here they are photographed together) …

 

 

Miley-Cyrus-and-designer-Jeremy-Scott…has used all the same shapes as his Fall collection but changed yellow to bubble gum pink. Add a blond wig, and it’s money for old rope, as they say…

Spring 2015

Spring 2015

Fall 2014

Fall 2014

 

 

 

But the Moschino coffers haven’t seen it so good in a decade. Patternmaking expenses alone have been macheted.

 

 

 

 

I found these words from an interview Franco did in 1997 which I thought were revealing and made me a little sad fifteen years later:

“People always try to look rich, famous and sexy. I hope that in the 1990s people are more civilized so that they don’t wear a good jacket to look like what they’re not. I hope they use more of their brains and follow their heart.”

Women, I urge you to use your brains when confronted with this rubbish. If you want an expensive tailored pink jacket (no judgment), seek one elsewhere. We do not want to be Barbie dolls no matter how this Scott dude spins it. He has a low view of women but we don’t need to buy into it.

 

My novel set in the international fashion industry is now available. You can buy Silk for the Feed Dogs here.

 

 

 

 

28 comments

  1. 🙂 Wow! Wow! Wow! 🙂
    What an excellent review of the the new Moschino Think Pink collection.
    Not for all the money in the world would I like to run around like Barbie and her no-brainer sisters!
    I loved the “real” Moschino designs. All I could afford in those days where the perfume, the soap in a pretty pink box and a bathing suit I must have worn for 10 years.
    Wishing you a very lovely weekend, my dear! xo 🙂

  2. Oh Lordie…as my former assistant from South Carolina would say. I remember buying those Moschino tongue in cheek t-shirts that made fun of fashion. This is such an embarrassment to the brand. And I am not a fan of Paris Hilton by any means but I bet even she would run a mile from this pink disaster!

  3. I am in the complete opposite corner of whatever Barbie represents and glad to have escaped (most of) the associated syndromes. But someone show this guy the real Barbie’s wardrobe please – now that’s an inspiration!

  4. Oh bloody hell, yeah! As your lush post shows. JS even underestimates Barbie with his tragic collection. x

  5. Thank you. That really needed to be said.

  6. I’ve really been struggling with his collections….they just seem to lack creativity to me. It’s not funny tongue in cheek, as you mentioned, it’s just mocking and dull. And Miley’s collaboration with him? ….it’s beyond words it’s so terrible. Having a glue stick and a craft box does not make you a designer. They need to move over and make room for the other amazing collections that came out this season.

    • I couldn’t agree more with your spot on glue gun and craft box comment! It’s atrocious stuff that held a kitsch appeal maybe for some but hopefully their fifteen minutes is past.

  7. Jeremy Brandrick

    Nice blog missus! Xx

    >

  8. Good lord, Jackie! They’re absolutely hideous. Even barbie looks better than this. Will people actually buy this stuff? Please tell me it’s all a bad joke. How can Scott have a career and even be taken seriously?

    • Olivia (how coincidental, that was the name of Moschino’s muse, belle of Popeye :-)) be afraid, be very afraid. This stuff is coming to a high street near you. Come Spring your feet will be sticking to pink Barbie goop everywhere you walk.

  9. Wow, really Horrendous. What an affront to women. I’ll never forget as a child looking at window displays in Manhattan with my dad and his comments about the fashion designers and their influence over women. We are smarter than this! Thanks for speaking out.

  10. Honestly, I was uncomfortable with the McDonald’s/Moschino stuff and this is just a continuation…I still enjoy looking and thinking about Vintage Moschino. This stuff? It gums up the mental synapses and is a waste of time for me…sigh.

    • Vintage Moschino was more up Dievca’s street I would say. This childish doll fetishizing is surely not an example of the submissive goddess we all have inside us. There is no fun in emulating inanimate plastic X

  11. So glad you said it!!! It’s utter bile and I am sick of screaming at images like this. He should have his hands cut off! How I long for the days of proper designers who had talent and inspired us all. Essex will be awash with this….I may hibernate!

    • I’m happy to voice your frustration, love. Now settle back down on the couch, here’s your wee cup of chamomile, I’ll see if I can’t have that bad man stopped. Hands cut off? Yes, you leave it to me, I’ll see if we can arrange a little…”accident” at the factory. I know exactly where it’s located 🙂
      You’re right, Essex will be a river of peptobismol hues, God help you.

  12. Reblogged this on Betimes Books and commented:
    Jackie Mallon, the author of SILK FOR THE FEED DOGS: “We do not want to be Barbie dolls…”

  13. Hung Tran

    Okay, don’t hate me, Jackie! I loved this collection. It was my favourite collection to come out of Milan this season, alongside Marni and Bottega Veneta (it doesn’t seem right to group them together, though). Alexander Fury said something interesting about Scott’s debut last season: “Moschino isn’t for an informed fashion connoisseur. It’s fun fashion junk food, like all those McDonald’s logos Scott splattered across the clothes. It had absolutely no nutritional value, no food for thought. It filled a hole in the schedule, and will no doubt be easily stuffed down consumers’ throats.” I think that was deserved.

    This collection, though, seemed more…robust? Is that the right word? We shouldn’t underestimate the cultural symbolism of Barbie – hyper-femininity, hyper-Americana. She’s the feminine ideal, and I think Scott weaponinsed plastic and peroxide to put together a very stirring collection. I thoroughly enjoyed it. Perhaps, as you said, I’m just trying to intellectualise Moschino. Perhaps I’m reaching for something that isn’t there. Either way, several items have already sold out online. He knows what people want. They may be brainless, but they’ve got money. Nothing screams Barbie quite like pre-packaged, readily available goods.

    • I don’t hate you, Hung 🙂 I think your opinion will be shared by many and I predict a sell out collection with this one.
      I tried to think back to fifteen years ago and would I have liked this then, younger, more hungry for novelty, looking for the in-joke etc..? But I don’t think even then this would have been to my taste.
      I liked Fury’s words. I don’t think Moschino was ever for a fashion connoisseur but it used to have more substance and I’m mourning the death of that. Since writing this post I’ve had a lot of designers reach out who worked with Franco or are still in the company since my time there and they really appreciated my point of view. It probably won’t be said by magazine editors who can already see doll themed photo shoots and window displays for the coming season, and sold out iPhone cases… Personally I think the pink was like a sugar rush to the head and they’ve lost their minds temporarily 🙂
      The cultural symbolism however? She’s a doll, and not just any doll, but one as physically far removed from a human woman as you can get. Scott said she’s the symbol of perfectionism and that just freaks me out that he thinks that. He’s like a 4 year old in his mum’s dress up box.
      But as I said, some women have the same mindset and the collection will sell.
      And what that says about us is even more grim than what Scott says about us.
      Thanks for your comment though. Always a pleasure.

  14. I fear for the fish 😦

  15. Ah never thought about it that way! Interesting point of view. Oh I wish I could attend your classes you must have some very interesting debates

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